The French Polynesia is world famous not only for its clear blue waters, but also for the quality of its waves to the delight of worldwide surfers. These waves are generated by the swell; an undulating movement of the sea surface that advances as it does not break.
If the French Polynesia is one of the kingdoms of surfing, it is thanks to its geographical location. Nestled in the heart of the South Pacific, this group of five archipelagos cover an area as vast as Europe and benefit all year round from swells generated by the four winds.
The conditions are therefore ideal for the many wave lovers: surfers, windsurfers, bodyboarders... but in order for them to enjoy these conditions, knowledge of marine forecasting is essential. This is where the Polynesian branch of Météo France takes place, including amongst their team swell specialists as Kenji Flohr, a Polynesian forecaster and surfer.
His mission is to anticipate the waves that will break on the Polynesian coasts, by analysing the swells, their direction, period, energy, length, and dimensions. The expertise of this surfer forecaster enables to popularize a set of advanced analyses. This makes this didactic documentary accessible to all. And thanks to Kenji Flohr’s crystal clear explanations like the water of the Pacific Ocean, this complex system becomes clear and above all… fascinating.
Learn more about the Tahitian Swell and the scientific approach for predicting waves, available on Nautical Channel.